Where to eat in Wellington

This might be the last freedom travel for a while! When I secured a job for this year, one of the first things I did was book a trip to Wellington.

I was attracted to Wellington because of the highly acclaimed Gallipoli exhibition at Te Papa museum. Which, if you haven't seen, you really must especially if you're a New Zealander. It was mindblowing how advanced the technology they used to make the figures so detailed and lifelike. The emotions on their faces were captured to create a sobering and eye opening experience. I couldn't believe it was free entry; they could charge $20 and it would still be worth it.

Aside from Te Papa, another attraction was the cafes that Instagram tempts me with.
Wellington is known for their arty vibes thanks to the architecture and design schools in the area. I wanted to visit some 'instagrammable' cafes and there was no one better to ask than my architecture and design friends who are well acquainted with the area. To give you an insight into the credibility of these friends of mine; one of them is a potter, one of them wears tortoiseshell glasses to work and the other has a man bun.

I asked for "hipster" and they gave me a looong list of places to check out. For four days, I went through that list and I had so much fun eating and taking photos.

Most memorable meal at Sweet Mother's Kitchen

Let's first start with the restaurant that isn't "hipster" but is definitely worth the hype.

Sweet Mother's Kitchen

We came here because Chow around the corner on a 2 for 1 Monday had a long queue and Flo and I were starved.
The menu at Sweet Mother's is New Orleans/ South American cuisine and the interior decor reminds me of Mexico restaurant in Auckland; full of character, eclectic and intimately cluttered. Everything on the menu sounded divine, don't come here if you're on a diet, this is food for the soul. For chats, for sharing, for messy fingers.

Dinner at Sweet Mother's Kitchen

I ordered buttermilk fried chicken with curly fries and "Mississippi comeback" sauce. Not sure what the sauce is but it was delightfully perfect with the curly fries. What's even more delicious is the fries with the ribs BBQ coating dipped into the sauce.

It was so filling we didn't have room for dessert, but look at the pies in the cabinet!

I was satisfied and now understand why so many of you told me to come here!

I came back another day to try the beignets, only because this is what Tiana in The Princess and the Frog makes in the film. Beignets are essentially doughnuts covered in icing sugar.

Beignets + coffee

The menu says to dip it in coffee, so that's what I had for supper.
A little disappointing though; the beignets were overcooked, they had a hard shell and they weren't as fluffy and light as I imagined.

Regardless, it was a still a highlight and one I'll be recommending to everyone. Sweet Mother's Kitchen tend to be busy, so book if you're in a group!


Prefab

Prefab's outdoor seating

Another place that was highly recommended, especially when I mentioned "hipster", is this cafe on Jessie Street.

Double doors open into an industrial-decor large room, bustling with midday chats. I took a seat by the bar and watched the man label coffee beans to sell.

Hanging lamps and metal chairs make up the industrial decor

Coffee bean machine

I ordered the waffles special that week, which was coconut and caramel with fresh fruits. It was so delicious and I ate it so quickly that I regretted not taking a photo of it.

The cabinet food looked delectable too. Look at those donuts!

The coffee was surprisingly good. If you come here, have a coffee to accompany your people-watching afternoon and let me know how the cabinet food is. Prefab was... pretty fab.


Tahi

The ladies that I had dinner with at Sweet Mother's told me about Tahi, a Thai-fusion restaurant right next door to Sweet Mother's.

It was a quiet restaurant when I went in at 6.30pm. But don't let that deter you.

Chicken cashew stir fry 10/10

I ordered the chicken cashew dish that I always order at Thai restaurants. And oh my goodness.

I was not expecting this work of art.
This is Thai fusion with a twist.

It was encased in a crispy noodle basket and inside that, a lettuce cup holding the mouthwatering chicken cashew stir fry. The sauces were a perfect companion and I'd never eaten anything so fast.

Tahi is no cheap eats, but if you're wanting a treat that won't disappoint, try Tahi. Come here on your next date ;)


Mama Brown

The sign outside Mama Brown says "best milkshakes in town". I have to disagree, not that I've tried other milkshakes in Wellington, but it just tasted like any other ordinary milkshake.

I didn't realise I had paid $10.90 for this large cup until it was too late. And I was doing some calculations in my head. Pack of tim tams $3, bottle of milk $3. What's with the high markup?? Did I accidentally order a 'hard shake' but couldn't taste the alcohol?
No, it was just their weekly special flavor, the other regular flavors are the usual $8.90.

Will try Fidels' shakes next time.


L'affare

Just down the road from Prefab is L'affare, where I enjoyed the nicest brunch of avocadoes on toast.

Avocado, tomatoes, ricotta on wholegrain toast with dukkah.

So basic I know. But it was so wholeheartedly satisfying that I popped across the road to Moore Wilson's to buy a pack of dukkah to make my own version of this healthy breakfast at home.

In front of Moore Wilson's supermarket is a courtyard with a little smoothie stand.

They had run out of dome lids for their cups so the lady gave me a discount for having to use flat lid with less smoothie.

Husk

Perhaps a favorite of mine in terms of the physical place is Husk cafe, located down a little alley off Ghuznee Street.

The seating was cosy and intimate. It was quiet on a weekday morning and the setting would be perfect for a catch up brunch.

There is a brewery behind the seating area and the cafe morphs into a bar in the evening.

I had their homemade crumpets, which for $13 is a good price to pay for a cooked cafe breakfast. But I wished it had an extra crumpet, it wasn't filling enough.

I didn't know what to expect of Husk, so I was pleasantly surprised at the food and ambience. Will definitely be returning next time!

Olive

The next day I met up with a friend for brunch at Olive. They have $10 waffles every Wednesday.

Tiramisu waffles. $10 at Olive every Wednesday.

We were so busy talking that I forgot to take photos of the place! I didn't even get to admire the courtyard that it boasts, I completely forgot.

But the waffles tasted as good as they look; berry compote, coffee syrup and mascarpone sprinkled with dark chocolate shavings. A man even asked us what we were eating because it looked "incredible".

They have other specials on different days worth checking out, big breakfast and coffee $22 on Mondays, a three course dinner for $40 on Tuesdays and $12 desserts on Wednesday evenings.

Maranui

Maranui cafe, Lyall Bay

I took the bus to Lyall Bay. Windy Wellington dissipated my plan to hire a bike and do a scenic cycle trip to the bay.

Maranui cafe is in a big weatherboard building, the peeled paint and the wooden furniture adding to the vintage rustic feel. Up the stairs and you'll find yourself in a surf club style diner.

I loved the colors, loved the oars and even the cloudy day did not bring down the mood.

View of Lyall Bay and the surf club next door

Bright colors on a dreary day

I got food from the cabinet, nothing noteworthy, but I enjoyed the sea view past the red yellow and blue benches on the deck which would've been a stunner of a day if the sun was out.


Scopa

"I hear you do amazing hot chocolates. Am I in the right place?"
I asked the waiter who nodded and grinned before serving this delectable liquid chocolate in a cup.

Scopa's famous Italian hot chocolate

I'm not a fan of hot chocolates to tell the truth, but so many of you told me to try it and I needed a place to escape the #weatherbomb outside.

If you're a fan of rich, decadent treats, then this is for you. Not to be eaten with anything sweet, just a warning, it is a "full flavored Italian hot chocolate". $4 for a regular size which a lot of other cafes can't get you.

Scopa is on the corner of Cuba and Ghuznee with open glass doors and a sophisticated feel to it. They serve Italian food and aside from the hot chocolates, my guess from looking at the other tables is to try the pizza!


Loretta

The inside of this restaurant is simple, classic, with wooden partitions to create an impression of privacy between the bench seating. While the gale stormed outside, the three of us sat cosily, catching up on the past year.

If there was one thing that stood out from Loretta's menu, it would be the prices. I'm just being honest, this is no cheap eats. The meat dishes come on its own and you have to add on the carbs and salad, which in total would be a staggering $50 meal.

Pasta tubes, lamb ragu, black cabbage, lemon + parmesan

So I ordered the lamb ragu pasta for a lot less and my, oh my, I did not know pasta could taste this good!!!

I was pleasantly surprised at the combination of perfectly al dente pasta, well flavored ragu with lamb that does not have that strong aftertaste that often puts me off. So tasty, so satisfying, no dessert required.

Freekeh; salmon, pea sprouts, savoy cabbage, chives, fennel top 

Organic chicken pie, roasted fennel bulb, tarragon

My friends, the two hot blonde girls, loved their dishes as well. Chicken pie and salmon salad. Big win for Loretta. Come here to splash out or show off to your Auckland friends ;)


Aunty Mena's

Normally a sign outside a restaurant that says "Vegetarian and Vegan" would put me off. What's an asian dish without stir fry beef? But I had spent my last dollar at the secondhand bookstore and there was no other option between here and the airport. Another reason for this visit is because those of you who aren't vegetarian or vegan spoke highly of this place that I was curious enough to try it.

Vegetarian hokkien mee with bok choy, tofu and mushroom

The hokkien noodles was too salty unfortunately. But my friends were right, I didn't notice meat missing. I'm not the best judge of Chinese food though, since they all taste the same to me. But try it out for an affordable simple meal.

Have you been to these places in Wellington? Let me know which ones you liked and what I missed! If you're going to Wellington, let me know which ones you're keen to check out.
Thanks to everyone who gave their suggestions! I had such a great time. Where to next??


Signed,

Elisa

Go by Bike Day 2017 - my experience!

Yesterday (February 8th) was Go by Bike Day and I, like many others in Auckland, changed my usual method of commute to a two-wheeled non-motorised mode of transport. The humble 200 year old invention.

I bought a bike 5 months ago and have been loving my adventures around the city with it. I'm not a confident road cyclist, I'm just a recreational cyclist who would love to get out and ride more if there were safer routes, particularly near my house in Greenlane. Then I could run more errands, meet up with people, maybe even commute regularly by bike.

My office is a mere 10 minute bus ride away ($1.85 one way) then 10 minutes of walking. Yesterday I put my handbag in the front basket, changed from a pencil skirt and blazer to leggings and hi-vis and off I rode.

Arriving at work, sweaty but awake and alert!

There is a bus lane along Great South Road operational at the time of my ride. A long, intermittently vacant stretch of green. But don't let that deceive you, when the buses come, they are big and intimidating. Luckily the driver knew to give me 1.5 metres of space and overtook me to pull over at the bus stop ahead. But now what do I do? Shoulder check, making sure the car behind me knew my intentions and I merged into the traffic lane to overtake the bus.

And then it happened again. Another shoulder check, another cautious merge. Weave in, weave out. I was aware that every time I couldn't see their side mirrors, I was in the blindspot.

I passed more than 20 cars on Great South Road, all waiting at the red light and I put myself ahead of all of them to use the bike advance box.

Coming up ahead was the five-finger intersection of Great South Road/ Manukau Road/ Alpers Ave/ Broadway/ St Marks Road. I approached it timidly and slipped between the stopped cars to use the bike advance boxes. A few seconds later, another cyclist joined me. Thank goodness he did because I followed his manoeuvres all the way down Broadway.

Broadway is a nightmare. This is where citybound buses converge and they could come three at a time. Wide footpaths are required outside the shops for the high volume of pedestrians. Then there are on-road parallel parking. There are a couple of pinch points where the footpath extends out onto the road, meaning the buses have to merge into the general traffic lane. Transport engineers, do let me know how we can make Broadway safer and more efficient!

I followed the cyclist along the cycle lane that appears briefly and disappears after the intersection of Broadway/ Khyber Pass Road. Then I cut through Lumsden Green and on to the segregated cycle lanes up Carlton Gore Road.

Wow what a difference cycle lanes make! Suddenly I stopped being so nervous, my grasp on the brakes loosened and I started to enjoy myself. There is a psychological shift in perception when your needs are being met. When I use cycle lanes I think: my safety and comfort are being prioritised; there are people thinking and designing for vulnerable road users like myself. It reassures me and encourages me.

I got to the office 15 minutes after I left home, cutting down journey time by at least five minutes. I am thankful my office has covered and secure bike racks. It wasn't full, even though my colleagues are avid cyclists as well but they store their bikes in the office. The shower facilites at work is also something to be grateful for. I'm not sure how much that affects people's decision to ride to work, but it definitely feels amazing to have worked out, exercised the mind and the legs and have a refreshing shower before starting work.

The route home was slightly different. There were right turns to make at uncontrolled intersections and a car parallel parking to avoid. But it was all successful and I logged the day's ride for Auckland Bike Challenge!

The challenges I faced as a new road rider were buses, cars and parked cars. Buses have bigger blindspots. Along the dedicated bus lanes, they have to encroach onto regular traffic lane to make space for cyclists. When they pull over at a bus stop, I had to work out whether the time to overtake a 14 metre vehicle will be shorter than its dwell time.

Cars are different; drivers have more visibility and manoeuvrability, therefore they can be unpredictable and not realise how easily and quickly cyclists can appear in their blindspots. Then there are cars waiting to turn out of intersections. I've learnt to establish eye contact with them before assuming right of way.

The parked cars are a different issue altogether. Although the "door zone" is a major hazard, parallel parking is actually the 'safest' parking layout for cyclists. Safer than 90 degree parking (which almost got me rear-ended twice in the past).

I am glad I rode to work. It woke me up and I felt energised and ready. I am thankful for the end of trip facilities and thankful to the cyclist that I followed all the way through Nightmare on Broadway. Cycling also made me more aware of the conditions of the road; the bumps around manholes, surface cracking and uneven road surfaces. The travel time savings and the saving cost ($3.70) does not override the vulnerability I felt on the road. Before I turn this method of commute into a daily habit, I need to be more confident on the road and it takes getting used to as well as safer road designs.

I would like to see more cycling infrastructure implemented because cycling is fun regardless if you're a child, a woman or a MAMIL! (Thank you M.Y. for the new hilarious vocab).
"Do it once and do it right". Connect dedicated cycle lanes cohesively, put some around train stations and please implement safe intersections! But I'm not just talking to the engineers and the designers; drivers, you too! Check your blind spots, give us 1.5 metres and let's all learn to share the road. We can ride our way into a more sustainable, congestion-free future.


Signed,

Elisa



For more transport related post click here for my Los Angeles travel experience by PT, and here for Auckland bike rides and routes.

Reflections on 2016

I didn't realise how momentous 2016 was until yesterday, when I was filing away Christmas cards and re-read this postcard from a good friend.

Stamped 24 Nov 2015, San Francisco

For me 2015 and 2016 blurred into one huge quest of trying to climb out of quicksand. I can't quite distinguish when one year ended and the other began. The first half of 2016 was lost to many hospitalisations. Out of my reverie came the desire for eating for pleasure, exploring unfamiliar places with the Canon, getting lost on cobblestone streets. I had sighed to my friend when I saw our mutual friends' instagram post- #Yosemite. "I was supposed to be there" but vacation plans had to be indefinitely postponed.

Do you remember last summer when there was a heat wave that rendered many sleepless nights for many in Auckland? Either spend the night in feverish heat or open the windows and be a feast for mosquitoes. Your mind does well to forget painful memories but I remember clearly the night I was in utter state of discomfort in my parents' room, too hot to sleep, too tired to eat.

I got the postcard that night. That was a surprise, I thought I was the only one who appreciated the novelty of snail mail, but I hadn't sent any that year so I was a little puzzled; who do I know in California? Turns out the friend who was in San Francisco wrote to me, and the last sentence on the back of that postcard was "praying that God has good plans for you and that you'll make it out here some other time".

Neither he nor I could predict that that would come true so soon. How amazing that I was strong enough to cycle across the Golden Gate Bridge later on that year, my willpower making up for the lack of muscles. I could not have imagined spending my 24th birthday marvelling at the architecture of Frank Gehry's Walt Disney Concert Hall, drifting to sleep to Stravinsky. I saw Pollock, Monet, Rauschenberg, Hopper, Rothko in real life, real size and was moved to tears at the beauty of color and composition, knowing how much some of them have fought to be included in a gallery. I got to see my American auntie for the 2nd time that year, this time my cousin whom I haven't seen in 5 years came to meet me too.

My cousin, me and my auntie. SFO

By the end of 2016 I had gotten out of the quicksand and was on full throttle to make up for lost time. I met key people that got me wondering "where have you been all my life?". I know God sent them; to encourage, to walk alongside, to entertain, to influence me (or "positive peer pressure") and to remind me that my mind can be one dimensional sometimes.

I have plans for 2017, but then so did I in 2015 which quickly came undone like ribbons on ballerina's shoes. But you have to keep dancing on stage.
Are my plans God's plans for me too? I can only know if stay sensitive and open minded to changes. I know that whatever plan He has for me, whether they are the same with mine or not, are good. They are good and they are not worth going against.

Whoever you are, I pray that God's plans for you are good too. And if you ever forget it and are tossing and turning in the middle of your own unbearable heat wave, I'll send you a postcard to remind you.

Signed,

Elisa.